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You are here: Home | Didgeridoo | How to Make a Wooden Didgeridoo | Tools and Equipment

 


Tools and Equipment


 

All the tools and stuff I use to make my didgeridoo's

 

When talking to people I have been asked many times, “What is that?”, “How does it work”, and “What does that do”. This page covers all the tools and equipment I use to make a wooden didgeridoo.



On a number of occasions I have helped others get hold of various tools, equipment and materials to make their own didges. Rather than spend loads of time sourcing stuff each time I get a request, I decided to make it available all the time, so I am now able to offer all the tools etc. for sale. This page is not fully functional yet, as I am still organising the suppliers and cost for each item, however the information is still available.


Images are courtesy of Axminster Power Tools Ltd.


Drawknife

Drawknife

This is a flat knife with a handle at each end. The knife is pulled towards the body and can remove a lot of stock (stock is the term used for the bulk of the wood). Drawknives come straight or curved, and in different lengths. I use a flexible one as it allows me to bend it so I can reach the tighter bends on the more awkward bits of wood.

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Spoke Shave

Spoke Shave

This is a type of hand plane with adjustable depth of cut. The body holds the blade, secured by a plate and screws, with a handle on each side. Straight and curved spoke shaves are available. I use a very shallow depth when finishing off or removing a ridge in the wood, whether natural or made with another implement. I use a deeper cut when I need to remove a greater amount of wood.
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Surform Rasp

Surform Rasp

These tools come in both one and two handed versions. They are a thin metal rasp, mounted on a block. I think of them as a cheese grater for wood. Great for rough, and finishing off the initial shaping, as well as fine adjustments after the bore has been made. Retains its cutting edge extremely well, and leaves a grooved finish which varies according to the pressure.
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Japanese Saw Rasp

Japanese Saw Rasp

A Japanese version if the surform with a different style cutting blade. Whereas the surform has a horizontal blade and hence acts like a cheese grater in the way it cuts, the Japanese saw is a number of saw blades attached to each in a wire mesh style pattern. One edge of the saw has a coarser blade, and the other a finer blade.
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Japanese Hassumme Rip Saw

Japanese Hassunme Rip Saw

Of the hand saws I have used this one has to be the best. It has a thin yet very sharp blade that cuts on the pull. Its cuts well with little effort compared to some of the other saws. The only disadvantage I have found so far is that tight cuts in curvy didgeridoo’s are difficult due to the depth of the blade. The blade is detachable and therefore easily replaced.
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Band Saw

Band Saw

A band saw is circular saw blade run between two wheels, one with a motor. This gives a continuous, smooth downwards sawing motion. Many band saws have adjustable tables to allow wood to be cut at different angles. All I can say is that the better the band saw the easier it is to work and the more versatile you can be.
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Chisel’s and Gouges

Chisel’s and Gouges

Chisels are used to remove excess wood; however the blade is straight so I do not use these in any area requiring curves. Gouges are chisels with curves. A wide variety of sizes, shapes, and angles of blades can be purchased. I use two sizes (¼“ and ¾“) with a medium curve on the blade which allows me to reach quite tight and narrow parts of the bore (on twisty and curvy didgeridoo’s).
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Arbortech

Arbortech

A lovely bit of kit, comprising of a metal disc with several cutting blades on the rim, attached to an angle grinder. Made from one piece of metal the cutting points can be sharpened with a chainsaw sharpener, or by hand with the correct file. A sharp blade cuts through wood like a knife through butter, if used when blunt, the wood may be difficult to cut and more pressure is required.
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Power Sanding Tools

Power Sanding Tools

I have tried and use a variety of power tools to assist with sanding. When I started out making didgeridoo’s I did not realise just how much effort and time goes into sanding! I have a larger orbital sander that holds ½ sheets. This is used on areas that are large and uniform. My favourite is an adjustable speed detail sander. It is quick and effective and can cover larger areas fairly quickly.
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Blowtorch

Blowtorch

I use a cheap gas torch with replenishable canisters that can be recycled. The torch is used for burning the bores of the didgeridoo’s prior to gluing. The blowtorches are widely available at most hardware and DIY outlets.
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Incinerator

Incinerator

Constructed like a metal dustbin with holes in it, and a lid with a funnel. Any waste I am unable to reuse, I burn off with this incinerator. It is fairly cheap and very, very useful (especially in winter).
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Jubilee Clips

Jubilee Clips

These are metal bands with a screw fitted that when tightened makes the band smaller. The pressure it applies is even around the circumference. Can be tightened very tight if needs be with the thread breaking. I use the branded ‘Jubilee’ clips as they have thread along their entire length so have maximum amount of adjustment.
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Carpenters Horse

Carpenters Horse

Simply, a frame made from timber comprising of two ‘A’ sections joined together by another piece of timber across the top of the ‘A’. I like using the horse as I can position the didgeridoo in the ‘V’ blocks in almost any position making it easier to work and less strenuous on my back.
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Clamps

Clamps

At the moment I use decent quality quick grip clamps. By using the ‘V’ blocks on the carpenters’ horse I am able to secure the didgeridoo quickly and easily. They have good strength; however some of the cheaper brands break very quickly with little pressure.
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V Blocks

V Blocks

Made from some spare timber, these are simply blocks with ‘V’s cut in them. The ‘V’s allow the didgeridoo to be located and fixed. I put a large and small ‘V’ in each block, one large, one small, so I can turn the didgeridoo around to suit. The spare ‘V’ also allows me to clamp it to the carpenters’ horse with it getting in the way.
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Rasps

Rasps

A rasp is a rough file with large cutting points for filing wood. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes and styles. I have rasp bits that attach to a drill. These are used for refining the mouthpiece. I have a couple of file rasps which are used in the shaping of the timber, and also the main two that I use: surform and Japanese and rasp saw thing (as listed above).
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Sanding Drums

Sanding Drums

I have an assortment of sanding drums in different sizes. They, err, are a drum with a bit of abrasive paper wrapped round. I use them for refining the mouthpiece after the rasp has been used and in the bell, after I have gouged or chiselled the excess out.
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PVA

PVA

The long name is ‘Poly Vinyl Acetate’, and is a liquid plastic. Comes in many varieties, from children’s washable PVA to waterproof external grade. Water soluble while wet. Commonly available in many retail outlets from decorating and hardware shops to DIY outlets and craft centres. Has many uses whether as a glue or thinned with water to prime surfaces or provide a protective layer.
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Milliput

Milliput

Two part resin. A modelling, clay like substance that comes in three different colours (white, terracotta, yellow), that when mixed together thoroughly, sets in 2-3 hours into a hard compound that can be sanded, drilled and painted etc. It is useful for making repairs and fashioning permanent mouthpieces. Available at modelling shops and a variety of mail order companies.
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Epoxy Resin

Epoxy Resin

A two part mixture that comes in gel form of varying viscosities, when mixed in the right proportion it reacts, creating heat, then solidifies into a hard mass that is extremely water and chemical resistant. Both toxic and a skin irritant when uncured but safe when cured. Different resins have different viscosities which are suitable for different applications.
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Extramite/Cascamite

Extramite/Cascamite

A two part glue. The extramite is a urea formaldehyde based resin in powder form that when mixed with water, forms a paste which sets into a hard compound. Used for joining the two halves of the didgeridoo’s together. When working in hot temperatures the glue can set a lot faster than it says on the instructions so be aware and work quickly.
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Once again thank you to Axminster Power Tools for their permission to use these photo's.



 

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